Acta Non Verba. Most people do a lot of talking and not a lot of walking…but Marcos Jarvis is all about action, and after being diagnosed with stage 4 terminal liver cancer in 2019 he set in motion a series of life changes that would see him beat that diagnosis and be declared cancer free less than 3 years later.

So, what better way to mark the 3rd anniversary of his diagnosis than to set out on a 100-mile run & trek across the wilds of Kwa-Zulu Natal, South Africa.

In partnership with Africa Wild Trails, Marcos and a team of runners and hikers set out on a mammoth multi-day mission to raise money for Wolo, a charity supporting families affected by cancer (www.wolofoundation.org).

The project would also incorporate an element of in-country conservation and community engagement.

After years of research into the local giraffe population it was clear that greater genetic diversity was needed and an initiative to release a new bull giraffe would broaden the gene-pool and ensure the long-term health of the population.

With 100 miles of trails criss-crossing the bush, but also winding through local communities, the project also looked to provide funding to give back to the very communities who were playing host.

The scene is set…now the hard work begins!

Fri 30th Sept/Sat 1st Oct - All Aboard! Joh ‘burg bound.

With 4 of the team already on location in Zingela, 10 intrepid travellers boarded a BA flight from Heathrow to Johannesburg. Adam and Jason had already crossed the Atlantic, flying in from Tennessee, USA!

A medical emergency mid-flight but thankfully not for team Wolo! A quick dash to terminal B and a short hop to Durban. Another meal! Logan, our driver was all smiles on arrival. As we raced inland the weather turned, from cold and cloudy to hot and humid in no time. Heads bobbed catching forty winks, before a healthy pit stop for some local cuisine, namely KFC in KZN.

Our last leg soon came as Angus greeted us and we climbed into 4x4s. A bumpy and dusty trip down acacia lined tracks, eyes peeled for wildlife and needle-sharp thorns! Impala and Ignala, then, GIRAFFE! 2 herds, one off in the distance but then a family but meters away, watching us, warily. Calf in tow they lumbered languidly…our first glimpse.

…one more corner, and we’d made it. Warmly welcomed by Justin, Marcos and Sam, we stood in awe at the beauty of Zingela - we’d arrived!

The heat of the day had waned as we sat for a late light lunch! Then off to our rooms to unpack and settle ourselves. Our home for the next week.

Surrounded by gentle bush covered hills, Zingela is nestled alongside the Tugela River. A gentle roar of rapids in punctuated by beautiful birdsong. Every effort made to retain the wild and remote nature of the camp while trying to accommodate the modern, perhaps less adapted traveller.

Once orientated we returned to HQ for our first daily briefing and a delicious dinner. As day turned to dusk, and the river melted into the night sky, we sat around the campfire and contemplated the challenge ahead.

Another journey was underway…the coming together of strangers, sharing stories of lives lived.

Off to bed…tomorrow it begins!

Sun 2nd Oct - Acclimatisation Day

Woken today by a cheerful chirrup from a resident bird. Time to get up he said!

Strolled into camp. Some of the group up and about and a few already returned from morning excursions. A gentle start to the day…tea, a light breakfast and tales of creepy crawlies and late-night navigational issues.

A short pre-trek briefing was quickly followed by some frantic organisation, filling water reservoirs, adjusting straps and generally readying for an acclimatisation session. 5k of bush trails around Hippo Rock.

Despite it being only 10am, the start saw us in 30+ degrees, the sun bearing down. Well swept trails were easy to follow, with any difficult areas marked with lime powder.

Marshals posted here and there, we were quickly circumnavigating the ‘pimple’ and spying more giraffe in the distance. With some running and others walking, the group split, but we were soon reunited in camp.

After even a short walk in that heat the prospect of a cooling dip in the Tugela River was just too tempting. Not even news of there being crocodiles upstream put us off! We slid around on smooth slippery rocks and enjoyed watching the weaver birds building their nests overhead.

Apart of meeting the resident python who inhabits the kitchen and seeing a brown snake slither across the dining room, it was a quiet afternoon resting and adjusting to the heat.

It was soon time for the briefing, ahead of our first full day’s trail. Now it was getting serious…and when I say serious, the briefing included guidance and warnings from our paramedic team! In short, so long as the heat, animals, creepy-crawlies or river water didn’t kill us, we’d be just fine! Pete was route master, and his father Mark delivered a lesson on the history of our route.

Suitably nervous about the day ahead we enjoyed a dinner of steak and cake…but not any old cake - Dave’s 61st birthday cake! Yum!

Early start tomorrow. Got to beat the heat!

Mon 3rd Oct - Trail Day 1

Alarm went off at 4.30am. Ouch! Fumbled around trying to sort myself out. Trail gear, water, electrolytes, gels, whistle, first aid etc… had to get up and then down to breakfast ASAP so I could grab a cuppa and some breakfast before we’d set off at 5.30am. I felt rushed and a little anxious.

Greeted to a stunning orange sky as the sun began to rise behind the hills in the distance. Everyone was up and about, filling water bladders, adjusting gear…nobody saying much, just in the zone.

To the start line. Harry on the cannon. Jo-Jo the Great Dane ready to be unleashed. BANG and we’re off. 25km today and it’s going to hit 37 degrees!

Thats not Jo Jo! The little dog was called Raider

The runners set off at pace. The benefit being that they would get in each day before the heat really built. The first few kilometres were gentle, through giraffe and acacia bushes, but we were soon ascending Mark’s pass. A very steep, dusty and rock-strewn path which lead to the high plateau that reaches around much of the Zingela valley.

The sun was quite high in the sky when we began to hear baboons from across the valley, the dominant males putting the young of the troop in their place. The view down the valley was stunning, with occasional glimpses of impala and ignala through the striking red flowers of the common coral tree.

Returning to the valley floor we came across Mia’s pit stop, a trailer providing water and a variety of snacks. It was a welcome break and opportunity to grab some shade. From here on the sun began to beat down on our route and perhaps it was the early signs of heatstroke that saw Sam mistake Jo-Jo the dog for a lion! (Note: I also mistook a large grey rock for an Elephant!) He was sheltering from the sun but panting heavily. Justin to the rescue with some of his water.

The next hour was tough, through open country, with no shade, the sun bounced off the already baked clay earth and into our faces. OSTRICH! A large male, right in front of us. It turned and took a few paces towards us. “Crouch down and cover your ears”, Sam instructed. A few breathless seconds passed before it turned and headed off.

Thankfully we were only a few minutes from camp and were grateful to get back and out of the sun! Safe…well, not before a quick check in with the paramedics to be strapped up to for an ECG just to check my heart rhythm, the old enemy ‘anxiety’ rearing its ugly head! All fine though and once Becky had also had the once over, we were able to announce day 1 of our challenge a success!

The heat was intense, and it was hard to find anywhere to cool down other than the wonderful Tugela River…everyone rested and reflected on how the next 5 days and remaining 85 miles were going to be a very real challenge.

Another evening, another briefing. Tomorrow would be cooler but longer. We would strike out to Sunset Rock at our usual 5.30am start time to take photos before heading back to camp for a quick breakfast break…then by kayak across the river to begin the rest of what would be a 16+ mile trail.

A lovely dinner with some delicious frittata followed by time spent around the fire telling stories and comparing blisters! Justin treated us to a classic with his

“Does the sun rise in the west now that we’re in the Southern Hemisphere?”

and Mark settled Justin’s snake anxiety by telling us about a recent sighting of a Mozambique spitting cobra very near his where he was sleeping!

Returning to my room, chuckling to myself, I was greeted by a scorpion in the middle of my bedroom floor which then proceeded to scuttle under my bed.

“Mark. Scorpion under my bed. Is that a problem?”.
“Only of you snore”, he said, “in which case give him some earplugs!”.

…and so, I went to sleep with a scorpion under my bed! As you do…

Tue 4th Oct - Trail Day 2

Woke feeling pretty good. Just one blister on my right foot to manage. Met a lovely looking brown button spider while brushing my teeth. Related to the black widow but only ‘very poisonous’ rather than deadly!

Out on time and up on the plateau running upriver to Sunset Rock. No Jo-Jo today…yesterday took its toll on his paws. Some pretty precarious sections to navigate with sheer drops to the valley below. A lovely group photo before a swift descent to camp. A cheeky brekkie wolfed down before jumping in a kayak to get across the river…managed to only get mildly damp on extraction. Everyone safely across, we began phase 2 of the day’s trail.

A much cooler day with plenty of cloud cover. In fact, quite chilly, meaning it was harder to warm up the legs. We passed our first Isivivane, spitting on and throwing a stone over our shoulders onto the pile in memory of influential figures who has helped shape the area.

Once on the plateau we rounded the ‘Pregnant Lady’ hill and then gained altitude steadily, eventually meeting Mia and her delicious ‘crumpets’.

It wasn’t long before we emerged from the bush and into more open community land. Dogs, chickens and children roamed free. An eclectic mix of housing styles from mud huts to more substantial concrete or rendered houses. People peered from their dark doorways as we strode by, but all smiled as we waved…they were shy and intrigued.

Far along the road we came across a group of children huddled around a pile of burning branches, a makeshift fire to beat away that chilly air. We stopped and gave out some sweets to beaming faces.

We were soon on our way back down the valley and made good time. Down on the path beside the river, Jason, Adam and I were striding out, almost home. “Shit shit shit…snake man, snake”, Jason called as he backed up quickly, knocking into me as I walked behind.

There, but a few feet away from us was a 9ft Black Mamba, the world’s deadliest snake! A bite from that snake would be fatal in less than 30 minutes! It was partially across our trail path but slithered away into tall grass. Once we’d calmed our nerves and convinced Adam not to pursue the snake for a photo op, we returned by kayak to base and regaled the rest of the team with our near-death story!

Everyone in good spirits after a much cooler day. Despite walking nearly 20 miles, it had felt like a recovery day after the sweltering conditions of the previous day.

With us due to spend the next 2 nights at Emaweni game reserve, we took the chance to pack our bags or fill boxes provided with our gear. It wouldn’t be until after the day 5 trail that we’d be back in Zingela.

Once again at 6pm Peter took us through the topography and distances of our next trail. Day 3 would see us follow the Tugela River before a long and continuous climb, finally reaching the entrance to Emaweni.

Another delicious dinner before retiring to bed.

Turns out that despite storing my protein bars, sweets and other goodies in the draws of the dresser in my room…a resident mouse had discovered my stash! I removed what hadn’t been tarnished and in solidarity with my rodent friend left some for him to feast on in the hope that he’d leave everything else alone. Thankfully it worked!

Wed 5th Oct - Trail Day 3

Yet again the alarm chimed at 4.30am. I was now less bleary eyed, adjusting well to the rhythm of each day. A rustic outdoor shower and toilet would greet me yet again, as would an army of ants and other bugs that seemed intent on sharing in my morning routine.

Once out of camp the trail returned upriver and followed the Tugela deep into the valley. The early mornings became my favourite parts of the trail. The sun gently rising behind us cast warm shadows that smoothed the sharp and prickly surroundings. I’d see more activity amongst the bushes and trees, with animals making the most of the cooler morning air. Yet the world seemed quieter and more at peace.

As the river meandered through the gorge, we came across gently rolling rapids and cows grazing lazily in the morning glow, juxtaposed with the sight of a large carcass, the likely victim of a leopard.

Our first stop was at Mushroom Rock, aptly named. We were greeted by Mark and the paramedics offering sustenance by way of fruit and fluids.

Not wanting to get too deep into the day and risk an ascent in tougher temperatures, I pushed on and began the climb. Though long, it was manageable, and we were soon in a lofty position looking back down the valley. Mia greeted us. “Hi Chris, do you want a beer? typical of our 8am exchanges each day! I declined, only to eat 4 of her delicious pancakes, smothered in butter and jam.

Close by was a mother and her daughter, watching us inquisitively. Adam beckoned for the girl to come over and he kindly gave them some pancakes…she went away beaming.

The weather was now getting toasty, and Justin decided to run on ahead to get to camp before the sun got too high. Adam and I marched on and as we reached the entrance to Emaweni, the sun was beating down onto the parched earth.

Everything was sheltering from the heat, except us. We moved from shady patch to shady patch, using the acacia trees as respite. We stopped briefly at a waterhole in the hope of spying some game…nothing! I’d had enough and with 3km to go I wanted to get to camp, so I put my AirPods in and cited my intention to Adam that I was on the move. I soon left Adam behind as I marched up some rocky inclines.

Strava showed the end of the trail some 500m ahead…almost there. I reached the marker on my phone, nothing here, just more steep tracks. It was another 1k before I turned a corner and knew I’d made it…that extra 1k felt like 10!

A pool. There’s a pool. A small pool, with freezing, slightly green water in it, surrounded by wasps and hornets, but we didn’t care, and the runners were already in it. We sat in the sun, drinks in hand, music blaring…we’d made it to the halfway mark!

The fun was short lived. Where was Justin? He hadn’t arrived yet but had run off ahead of me and Adam. Turned out he’d taken a wrong turn and ended up running an extra 3 miles! Only Justin…

James and Sarah turned up. Poor Sarah’s feet in bits and clearly causing a lot of pain. James duly jumped in the pool only to be stung by a hornet!

Finally, at 2pm, with the temperature soaring, Becky arrived with Angus and Sam by her side. They’d had a wonderful walk, stopping to enjoy the flora and fauna, to experience the route to its fullest, but the miles were clearly taking a toll.

The view from the Emaweni camp was breath-taking. Thick bush for as far as the eye could see broken up by patches of colour from trees in early blossom. We sat and soaked it in before the team rustled up some delicious burgers for lunch.

Having found out accommodation for the next 2 nights we settled in and took the chance to rest…not easy in that heat - nor in a tent with no breeze!

That night’s briefing was without technology…Mark gave instructions for what would be a ‘Community Route’. Behind him a storm had brewed up and lightening filled the air, brooding and fearsome.

Dinner alfresco was short lived as the strong winds blew the storm straight towards us. We had barely finished when the rains came, and we hustled to clear the tables and chairs. We dived into a small lounge with Jo-Jo taking his place on the sofa.

It wasn’t long before Mark beckoned us to venture out to enjoy the warm evening air and star-strewn sky…we managed perhaps 10 minutes before the heavens opened. 🤣 So much for local knowledge.

I retired to my tent, the wind howling around me. Not the best night’s sleep but at least I was dry!

Thu 6th Oct - Trail Day 4

I woke abruptly. Disorientated. It’s hard sorting your stuff out in a tent, by torchlight, half asleep! A hasty cup of tea and bowl of muesli and it was time to go…. but not before looking out over perhaps the best sunrise of the trip!

A 16-mile route today…unless you’re Justin and manage to get lost again and do an extra 5 miles!

It was a hard day. On one hand it was the easiest, a relatively flat route through the community, but with temperatures soaring and little or no shade, it was once again a battle.

We came across a deadly puff adder, but something more lethal had already won the battle, a car! Apparently, they can be very aggressive, so we were grateful not to have come face to face with a living one.

A few challenges with spotting the markings meant that Adam and I ended up having to cover some of the route in reverse. It worked in our favour as we passed through the community section a little later once the children were all awake. We were mobbed by curious but smiley kids of all ages. We handed out sweets and slightly tongue-in-cheek, some toothpaste.

As we left the community, we were confronted by a young man with gold front teeth…he spoke, asking, “Can I see your gun?”. I responded saying I didn’t have a gun, only a mobile phone! Thankfully he had no bad intentions and bade us farewell!

The steep path back into camp was once again a struggle and I was relieved and grateful to be back at Emaweni camp.

Today our paramedics were busy. Both Sarah and Becky needed medical attention for blisters, sore knees, muscle cramps etc. out came the ice bath! They’re both made of tough stuff!

As for me…it was blister-gate. I had blisters on blisters. They were uncomfortable rather than painful, but I was able to manage them and re-dress my toes after each day.

After lunch and a brief rest, we loaded into the jeeps and headed out of camp and into the community. Becky made an instant impact at our first location. A young lad immediately approached her asking how old she was…we briefly thought about selling her for some cows but how would we get them home!?

At two locations we were treated to wonderful hospitality. They performed traditional dances and sang songs. We tasted their ‘grog’, a fermented maize beer. We ate boiled maize - much like popcorn. Everyone smiled and laughed, the women ululated, and we were left feeling blessed and privileged to have been welcomed into their communities.

A late briefing and dinner on arrival back in camp. Tomorrow we’d return to Zingela.

Fri 7th Oct - Trail Day 5

A better night and much more organised come the morning…getting the hang of it now!

Bags loaded up to go back to Zingela, we set off knowing that today was almost all downhill, and the weather was much cooler. A day to recover from the heat of the last two.

By this point the group had taken to setting specific route guidance for Justin out on the trail. Using sticks and stones to fashion arrows and even writing directions in the dirt!

Concerned that the planned trails might leave us slightly short of our 100-mile target, we took the opportunity to circle Hippo Hill multiple times, while Harry and Bella looked on bemused…I think the giraffe we passed must have thought, “Silly humans must be lost. They’re going round in circles!”

I would have gone round once more but my hips and feet were in agony by this point, and I just wanted to get back to camp after what had been a very long 17 miles…

Just one day to go.

One final briefing. Peter set out a wonderful final trail that would see us go down river to Warthog Island, then up the game ladened valley before scaling Elephant’s pass, sweeping around the plateau and then coming down Mark’s pass before an ingenious final leg back to camp.

Mark regaled us with another of his wonderful stories about {names of the fabled people he talked about} and the iron smelting, poaching, river delta etc. We all loved listening to him.

Then another delicious dinner before heading off for some crucial rest before the last day’s trail.

Sat 8th Oct - Trail Day 6

Up and at ‘em! It had now become a well-rehearsed routine, getting up and out by 5.30am - there was no longer a sense of panic or urgency, just a calmness and serenity as we sat sipping tea and thinking about what lay ahead, looking out across the Tugela at an increasingly colourful sky.

The cannon sounded - right in James’ ear! - and we were off. Just over 16 miles stood between us and the completion of our challenge.

An early morning viewing of some blue Wildebeest a real treat before we arrived at Mia’s pit stop one last time. This time she’d set up a bar and burrito station…and she’d even remembered my Heineken zero!

Scaling Elephant’s pass felt like a breeze…our now highly toned calves, quads and glutes driving us up onto the plateau…but the miles in the legs were now adding up and the route round the valley seemed to go on forever. My hips ached but the end was now in sight.

Despite the discomfort, Adam and I were in full safari mode as we stalked giraffe and impala. We were even treated to a brief glimpse of a noisy baboon troop - their barks were close, so we crept into the bush and saw an adult male drop from a tree and make for the hills.

…and so there we were, stood by the Tugela River, the sun reflecting off the cool clear waters like a thousand stars. 100 miles completed. Our journey over? Or perhaps merely the end of a chapter. We climbed into kayaks and paddled our way down through the rapids - getting a little stuck - and back to camp, the finish line marked with Wolo flags.

As the last of our intrepid team crossed the finish, we threw our arms around one another. Smiles shone and tears flowed. Over 6 days back-to-back we’d tackled the trails, trodden each mile through tough terrain in heat and humidity. We’d battled the bugs and blisters, the aches and strains, and there we stood, triumphant, knowing that we’d achieved something wonderful, together, a team, there for each other every step of the way!

That afternoon was spent in celebration and reflection. We connected with loved ones back home, announcing our achievement, relieved to have come through unscathed.

Drinks flowed and muscles loosened…

At a special closing dinner, shared with Pete, Mark and their team, we heard emotional reflections from Angus and Justin. We laughed and cried, together, as one. The profound impact that the trip would have on each of us, but also on all those whom the fundraising would support was immeasurable.

Sun 9th Oct – Giraffe capture & release

Having slipped away early the previous evening, I woke feeling refreshed. My legs still ached but I felt relieved not to have to face another day on the trails. The lie in was a treat!

For James, Sarah, Chris & Lynn it had been an early start. They’d chosen to go to Nambiti with the hope of witnessing the capture of the giraffe that we would soon be releasing back into the Emaweni reserve.

The rest of us sat patiently at Zingela waiting for the news. It took a while but eventually our phones began to buzz with photos of not one but two male giraffes, restrained and ready to be transported.

We said goodbye to the rest of the team at Zingela and jumped aboard the jeeps. I pang of sadness to be leaving such a wonderful setting. A truly magical place.

It was an hour of body-rattling rutted roads out of Zingela, and into Emaweni, before we emerged, past the school and up to the rear entrance of the Emaweni reserve. Soon we could see the column of vehicles moving towards us down a dusty track. As the edged closer we could just make out the towering necks of the giraffe. It seemed to take an age, but with such precious cargo and in seating heat, it was imperative to keep them as calm as possible.

The team of handlers, researchers and vets were all on hand to make sure the release went according to plan, and once in position the two giraffes (Logan & Wolo) were released. Slightly wobbly at first, they stumbled out, but were soon striding out through the acacia trees.

It was a humbling moment. The culmination of years of research and then funding to bring about what will in time secure the future of the giraffes in Emaweni and Zingela.

…and so, it was time to say goodbye to Peter & Mark. They had already etched themselves in our hearts with their passion for the Zulu heritage, the conservation of nature habitat and species who thrive there, but also their respectful engagement with the local community. I will never forget them.

As we drove away, awestruck by what we’d just witnessed, we were only just beginning to realise the significance of the past week. It wasn’t just about the 100 miles, or raising money to support cancer sufferers, it was the very essence of Wolo.

We Only Live Once and with that one life we must protect the future of our planet so that those who come after us have a sustainable and vibrant planet in which to live theirs.

South Africa’s biodiversity is as fragile as its democracy. 44% of it’s main river ecosystems are critically endangered, 50% of their wetlands have been destroyed, while 10% of South Africa’s birds and frogs, 20% of its mammals and 13% of its plants are threatened.
We saw the poverty in the rural communities for ourselves. Further loss and degradation of South Africa’s biodiversity has serious implications for society and the economy. Natural ecosystems provide many essential services, such as the provision of clean water and air, prevention of soil erosion, pollination of crops, provision of medicinal plants, nutrient cycling, provision of food and shelter, as well as meeting spiritual, cultural, aesthetic and recreational needs. Large portions of the country’s economy are heavily dependent on biodiversity (e.g. fishing industry, game and livestock ranching, horticulture and agriculture based on indigenous species, commercial and subsistence use of medicinal plants, ecotourism).

I hope that in our own small way, we have helped to strengthen the bonds between the local communities and promoted the broader benefits of the projects being run by Zingela & Emaweni.

The rest of day 8 was spent at Nambiti (Big 5) Private Game Reserve. Some well earned time to relax and enjoy 1 night at safari, where they were lucky enough to see lions, elephants, rhinos and buffalo in their natural habitats.

The following day, the group departed Nambiti for their flights home.

All participants completed this amazing challenge for Wolo Foundation, for themselves, for the journey and to contribute to nature. If this sounds like something you would be interested in, please see our website www.wolofoundation.org for further information.

Please note that this is not a race.

Africa Wolo 100 23rd Spt - 2 Oct 2023
or those who are interested in raising money for charity and creating an African journey with memories that will last a lifetime, please email contact@wolofoundation.org or visit https://wolofoundation.org/wolo-africa-100-2023 and signup. Limited spaces avalible

If you are ready for a challenge and to be part of something special, sign up today!

Sisubonana Futi
Chris Goodman (AKA - The Mountain Goat)

Athlete categories
Runners - Phil, Dave, Chris & Lynn, Marcos
Hybrid (a bit of both) - Justin
Trekkers - Chris, Adam, Jason, James, Sarah, Sam, Angus & Becky

Wolo 100 Africa - A story of cancer, charity, conservation and community